The way of life shifts of the pandemic “have made people more open minded about body shape”, the London vogue week designer Rejina Pyo stated at a preview earlier than her present yesterday.
Time spent at residence in comfy clothes “has shown us that clothes don’t have to restrict our bodies to make us feel special”, she stated. “Some designers love to make clothes really tiny, but I have always designed clothes with a bit of room. Food is really important to me so I like to make clothes that are comfortable when your belly is full of dinner!”
Pyo, who has written a cookbook together with her chef husband, served snacks and cocktails at her present at the Aubrey restaurant in a Knightsbridge lodge. “It’s a really fancy place,” she stated. “I wanted to create that mood of excitement that you get at the beginning of the evening when you go out to eat with your friends and family. I love that moment when you arrive and see your friends and you can read their mood from what they are wearing.”
An actor, a dressing up designer, a photographer and a brand new mom had been amongst the present’s fashions. “Because our clothes are sized generously, we aren’t restricted to only using really skinny models,” the designer stated. “And I didn’t want that typical stompy model walk. I said to the women, imagine you’re in a restaurant and you’ve stood up to go to the loo and spotted someone who looks interesting at another table – that’s how to walk across a room.”
Taking inspiration from the something-goes costume codes of supper golf equipment in 1920s America, the assortment ranged from denim and tweed fits to an acid inexperienced ruffled robe and a slinky column costume. Some items had been upcycled from deadstock denims made for a earlier assortment.
Neither Burberry nor Victoria Beckham, British vogue’s two strongest manufacturers, are participating on this London vogue week. Burberry will stage a catwalk present in London subsequent month as an alternative; Victoria Beckham spent Saturday making a movie of her new assortment which will probably be proven on-line subsequent week.
Roksanda Ilinčić and Dame Harriet Walter. Photograph: David M Benett/Dave Benett/Getty Images
Designers who’ve seized the alternative to step into the highlight vacated by the absent massive names embody Roksanda, whose present at Tate Britain featured the first NFT offered at London vogue week, a digital ball robe shoppable on the designer’s personal web site via a partnership with Clearpay. Red carpet favorite Roksanda, whose entrance row featured the actor Harriet Walter in a lime trouser swimsuit, introduced her trademark exuberant glamour to a collaboration with Fila, which included puffer coats in the joyful rainbow brights of a patchwork quilt, and neon moonboots. “Sportswear and loungewear became much more part of my vocabulary over the past couple of years,” the designer stated backstage after the present.
Students from the English nationwide ballet faculty changed fashions at the first catwalk present in two years for Preen. “We were thinking about youth culture and youthful exuberance, so we wanted to work with young dancers. The students brought a phenomenal energy which made the project feel really joyful,” stated designer Thea Bregazzi backstage.
‘A Cabaret kind of sexiness’ at the Erdem present. Photograph: John Phillips/BFC/Getty Images for BFC
Erdem Moralıoğlu introduced supermodel starriness to London vogue week, with Karen Elson opening his present wearing an embroidered double-breasted black silk coat from the Erdem’s current menswear assortment, set off by a slim velvet scarf.
“Having designed menswear for the first time, I thought it was so interesting to see how the silhouette was transformed when you put it on a woman,” he stated. “That double breasted broadness looks so different when you see it on Karen,” the designer stated backstage of a set which revisited the gender fluid dressing and decadent nightlife scene of the 1930s. “There’s a Cabaret kind of sexiness to it – a louche cardigan, a glimpse of a bra.”
