Up to my neck
Indomitably refined, the polo neck is the Old Fashioned of cocktails – one thing with timeless attraction. It will soften a biker jacket as at Celine, add gravitas to a prairie gown, à la Alexa Chung’s catwalk, and anchor down frilly frocks, similar to at Simone Rocha.
A polo neck “represents an uncluttered and sleek athleticism”, says Simon Holloway, artistic director of Agnona, whose AW assortment featured salt-and-pepper and cream-hued cashmere variations. His references included “the impeccably dressed Garbo or Hepburn, or the radical chic of the mid-century intelligentsia”.
It is true that polo necks whisper, in library tones, of their wearers’ mind. But they don’t seem to be all work and no play – brightly-colored variations convey extra of a digital native tradition vulture really feel than the dusty mental elite. And worn below slinky spaghetti straps or bralets as at Versace, they confirmed lined-up might be attractive.
For Holloway, they signify “subtle power and discipline”, perennial qualities that really feel very now. While the catwalks supply on-pattern methods to put on them, relaxation assured – polo necks received’t exit of style any time quickly. EVB
In the body
Tiny clutches and XL totes could have made purse headlines not too long ago, however AW19 has one thing extra refined up its sleeve: the body bag. One model to observe is Lutz Morris, based by former Calvin Klein designer Tina Lutz after she fell for the development of a classic leather-based pen field her husband gave her for Christmas. The end result: 11 kinds, based mostly on an ‘old German cigar box tradition’, already profitable influencer followers. SC
One of
Lutz Morris’s body baggage in fake crocodile and snakeskin constituted of embossed calf leather-based. Photograph: Lutz Morris
Gone fishing
Whether or not style folks will really be discovered on riverbanks this autumn is unclear, however they are going to positively have the gear of a fisherman. See the unlikely pattern for galoshes. At Toga, paper bag uppers appeared on patent footwear; at Dior, gown footwear got here with waterproof ankle-bands, trousers tucked in; and Stella McCartney went for welly-esque ankle boots in impartial tones. Jacquemus menswear, in the meantime – impressed by “traditional French workwear” – noticed two-tone footwear impersonate heavy-obligation gumshoes, just like these seen in pink at Kiko Kostadinov. Weatherproof and trendy? We’re offered. LH
Dior gown footwear with waterproof ankle-bands. Photograph: Victor Virgile/Gamma-Rapho through Getty Images
Give them the daring shoulder
Q: is a gown even a gown this season if it doesn’t have a daring shoulder? A: most likely not. Puffed and ruched, stretched and structured, shoulders have been a dominant pattern on the catwalk. But these are much less Dynasty and Christophe Decarnin’s Balmain, and extra sculpted couture items, such because the rose silk satin duchess Sarah Burton exploded over draped sleeves at Alexander McQueen. Richard Quinn, in the meantime, contrasted couture-like floral bubbles with skintight black latex to create a line “that is exaggerated but still desirable and not comic”, and Givenchy, Louis Vuitton and Saint Laurent’s variations ranged from floaty to fierce. It wasn’t all pink carpet-worthy. At Balenciaga, daring shoulders got vacationer stylish attraction integrated into parkas – Demna Gvasalia’s reply to 2018’s throwback “dad jacket”.
The pattern, style psychologist Carolyn Mair says, “signifies power and physical strength. Wearing broad shoulders not only makes us look more powerful, but makes us feel and act accordingly.” SC
Jacket, £four,190, trousers, £1,zero90, and necklace, £820, by
Alexander McQueen.
Styling: Melanie Wilkinson.
Hair and make-up: Delilah Blakeney utilizing Nars. Stylist’s assistant: Peter Bevan. Model: RuYing at Milk Photograph: David Newby/The Guardian
Grey is the brand new beige
When it involves color palettes, boring is the brand new fascinating. Beige was dubbed the color of final season; this time it’s gray. Dries Van Noten had it head-to-toe, on pinstripe fits, tights and gloves, Acne Studios boasted smoky knits and fits, whereas at Maison Margiela, darkish gray overcoats met with ashy skirts and jackets. Instead of drab, this can be a fashionable image of anonymity, a backdrop to style’s emphasis on individuality. LH
Acne Femme goes for gray at Paris style week. Photograph: Kay-Paris Fernandes/Getty Images
Big information about little flowers
Gypsophila – the fragile perennial resembling cotton wool and also referred to as child’s breath – is shifting away from the petrol station forecourt and on to the catwalks of manufacturers similar to Givenchy. Expect to see it changing monstera in your Instagram feed any time now. SC
Gypsophila aka Baby’s breath. Photograph: Getty
Pull over
Knitwear for autumn is hardly information, however this time round primary V-necks have been ditched for assertion knits. Tod’s have been impressed by conventional Norwegian sweaters, at Victoria Beckham, argyle diamonds lent Gleneagles allure, whereas JW Anderson made jumpers simply that little bit conceptual. EVB
JW Anderson will get a little bit bit conceptual with jumpers this season. Photograph: JW Anderson
When outdated turns into new
When you assume classic, do you assume thrift shops, flea markets and hours on eBay? Presenting classic 2.zero the place designers flip undesirable garments and deadstock cloth into distinctive collections that provide a contemporary tackle sustainable luxurious. Former Suno designer Erin Beatty is an instance. After closing her New York model, she needed to begin from scratch. “I was terrified by the predictions for our planet and how I might have contributed to it,” she says. “That’s how I came to vintage.” Her model, Rentrayage, launching for AW19, joins the likes of Rave Review and One Vintage in creating new garments out of present cloth discovered after “scouring every corner that we can”. SC
Clothes utilizing classic materials by
Rentrayage. Photograph: Rentrayage
Worth a strive?
The Rugby World Cup is but to kick off however style is already on board, with the return of vintage-style shirts: worn with Peaky Blinders caps at Kent & Curwen; monochrome below a black dinner swimsuit at Todd Snyder; the other way up, outsized and spliced into skirts at Burberry; collegiate at Wales Bonner; and a bit futuristic at Xander Zhou. It’s time to dive into the scrum. LH
A mannequin in a rugby shirt by
Xander Zhou at London style week. Photograph: Victor Virgile/Gamma-Rapho through Getty Images
A pattern with legs
Wrinkled knees, college uniform-gray, with crusts of nail polish to curb ladders: tights come loaded with unglamorous associations. But all that’s about to alter. On the catwalk this season, tights gave a conflict of color at Ashley Williams (deep orange paired with a yellow gown) and Burberry (shiny pink with a muted gown). Elsewhere, they blended into the background at Richard Quinn and added texture and sample at Asai.
For the model’s designer A Sai Ta, tights can “amplify a look, or add versatility to a favourite dress”. Think of them not as a necessity however as a approach to experiment together with your winter wardrobe.
The largest shock of the newest pattern? That excessive-denier black tights – so lengthy a excessive-style no-no – have grow to be a success. See the Balenciaga, Balmain and Alexa Chung catwalks for reference – proof that tights can be utilized to make an outfit bang and are simply nearly as good at offering that every one-necessary bassline to your look. EVB
Tights, £150, shorts, jacket and boots, value on utility,
Saint Laurent by Anthony Vaccarello.
Styling: Melanie Wilkinson. Model: Cha Mi at Wild. Photograph: David Newby/The Guardian
Pin it
Brooches will add a jolt of flavour to any autumn outfit. They are additionally an amazing hack to hide unintended spills, as anybody who has watched Phoebe on Friends is aware of. EVB
Brooches by
Toga. Photograph: David Newby/The Guardian
Over the rainbow
The fantastical world of Tim Walker will come to life on the V&A in London this month, within the largest ever celebration of the style photographer’s 25-year profession. From a powerful again catalogue together with Julianne Moore modelling Emanuel Ungaro and probably the most well-known and intimate portraits of the late Alexander McQueen to 150 new works he created specifically after exploring the museum’s archive, Tim Walker: Wonderful Things is “a joy from start to finish”, says curator Susanna Brown. “His pictures are never about the clothes alone. They’re about storytelling, dreams and make-believe.” SC
Julianne Moore sporting Emanuel Ungaro, photographed by Tim Walker. Photograph: © Tim Walker Studio
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