Kaushik Velendra Is The Need-To-Know Designer Dismantling Indian Fashion Stereotypes – British Vogue
“It’s power dressing for men, and it’s tailoring for the future,” says Kaushik Velendra of his model’s DNA. Since his debut on the London Fashion Week menswear calendar in January 2020, the 29-year-outdated south-Indian-born designer has made waves together with his shoulder-enhancing menswear paying homage to armour. For SS21, he works into his undulating silhouettes with a selected concentrate on materials — assume luxurious tulle ruched and draped over tailor-made supertech and worsted wool.In 2019, he grew to become the primary Indian-born designer to graduate from Central Saint Martins’ prestigious MA style course, and to achieve the LVMH Prize semi-finals in its 2020 version. So far this 12 months, Velendra has additionally dressed the likes of supermodel Alton Mason for the Grammy Awards and Bollywood main-man Ranveer Singh for the Filmfare Awards.Having simply moved to a brand new studio at 51 Hoxton Square in east London, an area as soon as inhabited by the late Alexander McQueen, Velendra plans on sharing the studio with Indian design college students. “I want to help people from the Indian community because when I came here, I struggled to find [somewhere] to cut and create,” he says.Moments earlier than his SS21 bodily runway present in entrance of a small variety of friends, Velendra spoke to Vogue concerning the expertise of manufacturing a group throughout lockdown, the misconceptions surrounding being an Indian designer and his hopes for a extra sustainable style business.Kaushik Velendra spring/summer time 2021.
© Kaushik VelendraWhere did you develop up and what sparked your curiosity in style?“I grew up in Bangalore, southern India. Moulding candles on the streets was my first job. Then I worked at Bollywood production houses and from that, I found my own sense of style. Eventually, I became the main costume designer, which I did for a few major Bollywood films such as [Bollywood producer] Mani Ratnam’s Guru [2007].”How did you begin designing menswear?“It came from working with male Bollywood stars and with so many different body types — everyone wanted adjustments and customisation. This was my training in figuring out how to modify tailoring.”You utilized to the Central Saint Martins MA course in style design 16 instances. Why was it so necessary so that you can go there and the way did learning at CSM affect your work?“It’s the most effective [fashion] faculty on the planet. I went from absolute poverty to sustaining and educating myself, so every time I acquired a rejection from CSM I wanted to search out out what was going mistaken. I couldn’t take no for a solution and finally, I bought in.“Fabio [Piras, Central Saint Martins’ MA fashion course director] had an enormous position in making me perceive my work. When I had my interview, I advised him I needed to create a powerhouse model that has a attain. There’s by no means been an Indian model on that prime degree.”What challenges have you ever confronted breaking into the worldwide style business?“I want to change the perception of being Indian in fashion because everyone who’s heard about me expects to see colour, embroidery and beading [in my designs]. I’m trying to show a whole new dimension of what Indian craftsmanship can look like, it doesn’t have to be colourful like the Holi and Diwali festivals. Of course, that’s my culture, but I want to show we can be international without the cliches.”You’ve already dressed some unimaginable folks. Who have you ever loved working with lately and who's your dream consumer?“I’ve enjoyed dressing Jack Brett Anderson. I’d love to dress Timothée Chalamet because he is someone who could pull off our clothes beautifully.”You made your LFW debut in January 2020 and you then launched a movie throughout lockdown. How did it really feel to go from exhibiting bodily to digitally?“It was difficult, but it was also a moment to show the craftsmanship in my work. I recorded myself during quarantine working on moulds. The videographer was outside the building shooting from the balconies. It was crazy, but fun.”Kaushik Velendra spring/summer time 2021.
© Courtesy of Kaushik VelendraTell us about your SS21 assortment. What impressed the fabrication, reduce and silhouette?“The collection is called Romeo and Romeo. The name came from Romeo and Juliet, but it has nothing to do with romance. It’s all to do with self-confidence and coming out from the darker side of [Covid-19]. During lockdown when there were no suppliers or stores open, the only thing I had was my supertech fabric, beautiful worsted wool and luxurious tulle. I wouldn’t normally mix these things, but found it shows that opposing fabrics can work together beautifully.”What’s the importance of using shoulder padding in your work?“It can be perceived in different ways. It’s armour, but it’s also about the feeling when you instantly experience a change in posture and a sensation in the muscles [depending on what you are wearing]. Our tailoring lifts you up and makes you feel stronger. It’s more than just a shoulder exaggeration — it builds confidence and gives new energy.”What is the method of constructing the moulds?”[They’re made from] warmth-blasted felt, a fabric I’ve discovered to manage and perceive. This hyperlinks again to my historical past of moulding and promoting candles on the streets of India. I used to be embarrassed to inform anybody I did that, however in the present day I’m proud as a result of it’s helped form my method.”Kaushik Velendra spring/summer time 2021.
© Daniel SimsWhy do you're feeling it was necessary to stage a bodily present this season?“When things are shown digitally, there’s so much that gets missed. All of my pieces are couture and, digitally, you wouldn’t see the detail and craftsmanship. It’s not just about the fabric, it’s the show itself, which adds to the emotion behind the collection.”What are your hopes for the way forward for the style business?“Sustainability is key. You don’t need to produce so many shows and garments. There could be two seasons instead of four or just one season for some brands. There’s a perception that we have to have 60 to 100 looks. My business model is sustainable; I’m going to produce less and sell everything that’s made. I also keep a close eye on our carbon footprint.”More from British Vogue: